Italy
La Dolce Vita
The Holiday Itinerary
We visited Italy for approximately 3 weeks in late May - early June, 2016. We visited 4 cities in Italy with our Itinerary as follows:
- Fly into Venice
- 3 nights in Venice
- 5 nights in Florence
- 5 nights in Rome
- 5 nights in Sorrento
- Fly home from Naples
We caught the train between cities. For Sorrento we caught the train from Rome to Naples and then caught the ferry to Sorrento.
Venice Travel Journal
May 18
Day 1 - On Our Way...
We departed Melbourne on Wednesday morning 18th May at 11:45am aboard our QANTAS flight. Like any new adventure, we were very excited and could not wait to be on our way. However it would be 2 stops and approximately 30+ hours before we would touch down in Venice.
To get there we had our first stop in Singapore for a 5 hour stopover before boarding a SWISS AIR flight to Zurich for the second stop-over.
Singapore airport is huge. We wander around and find the cinema - which is free to get in. A movie is midway through so we don't go in. Instead we find some seats, recharge our phone batteries and just catchup with news etc
We boarded our SWISS AIR flight and departed Singapore for the 13 hour journey to Zurich. We departed Singapore at 11:10pm local time. It's only a 2 hour time difference, nonetheless it was 1:10am Thursday morning Melbourne time, when we left Singapore.
13 hours is a long time to be on a plane - particularly in economy!! SWISS AIR economy is not the most spacious around and their seats are very hard. I don't think the person who chose the seats for their planes has actually sat in them for 13 hours. They felt like concrete. Would not fly SWISS AIR again!!! We got a little sleep on the plane - so although it was a long flight we didn't feel too tired when we touched down - just sick of flying.
Anyway we made it to Zurich on time and touched down around Thurs 19th 6:00am local time (which was approx 2pm Melbourne time). We only had a short layover in Zurich - about 1hr to 1.5 hrs before we got on the final flight to Venice
May 19
Day 2 - Finally Arrived - Now the Holiday Begins
We board our SWISS AIR flight at 7:35am local time for the 1hr 10m flight to Venice. We arrive at Marco Polo airport in Venice on Thurs 19th at 8:45am local time (approx 4:45pm Melbourne time). Its been a 30+ hour journey to get to Venice - thank God its over - though we don't feel too tired.
From Marco Polo airport we catch the express shuttle bus to Piazzale Roma (cost €8 each). From there we caught the Vaporetto (water bus) #1 to the Rialto Mercato stop (cost €7.50 each) to arrive at our Airbnb location. What a wonderful way to arrive at your accommodation and incredible first impressions of Venice. We booked all of our accommodation through Airbnb. This is the first time we have used Airbnb, so we were a little unsure what to expect, but very hopeful everything would be OK. We were met at Rialto Mercato stop by Cinzia and her mum Maria. Our apartment is very close to the Water Bus stop - only a few hundred metres. It is also very near Rialto bridge - a great location. The apartment is a small one bedroom apartment, however it is very clean and lovely - we are very happy with it.
Now we are ready to start exploring. We wander the streets of Venice, the weather is disappointing - it's cold and raining, just like the Melbourne winter weather we left behind. The streets are small and narrow but full of character. It is difficult to keep track of our direction. The streets are random and unsystematic, all weaving around small canals. There are interesting narrow alleyways and courtyards - some are residential, some are shops, bars & restaurants. You are able to get a good idea of which way to go by knowing your major landmarks. There are signs on building on street corners that have arrows and the landmark, eg Per San Marco or Per Rialto, so you can't get too lost. So for us with our accommodation close to the Rialto Bridge it's fairly easy for us to be able to return confidently.
We visit the Rialto Markets to see some of the local fish and produce. The Rialto food market is very similar to the Victoria Market in Melbourne. We also take a wander to see the Rialto Bridge, however it is under renovation, so you don't get a very good view of the bridge itself - although you can walk across it. The Rialto Market and Bridge are both only a couple of minutes walk from our apartment. All along the bridge are small shops selling all sorts of items from souvenirs to watches.
For lunch we stop at a small (everything is small) restaurant in the neighbourhood called Antico Panifici. Donna has gnocchi with shrimp and asparagus and John has Spaghetti Carbonara. The serves are small but the gnocchi is very good as is the Carbonara. After lunch we find a supermarket. Not so Super! Very small - similar size to a 7/11 store. Here we buy some wine, chips, cheese & biscuits & some Italian beer. So now we have all our health food sorted out we return to our apartment to drop the groceries off then head out t0 explore further.
In the afternoon we visit St. Mark's square (Piazza San Marco) and visit St.Mark's Basilica. It is free to get in however John booked an entrance time for €2 to ensure we would get in and not wait in the long queue. St. Mark's Basilica is spectacular adorned with amazing marble statues, carvings & gold coloured frescos. There is gold everywhere. The ceilings are simply stunning.
After St. Mark's Basilica we then spent some more time wandering St.Mark's square. We took a walk along the canal outside St. Mark's square and visited the Royal gardens. It was overcast and rainy for a lot of the day however around 2:30pm the sun came out and it was bright and warmed up quite a bit after that.
Next we visit the St. Mark's Correr Museum. The museum is located on St. Mark's Square. This museum is housed in a partially restored palace. Again it is spectacular in it's luxurious abode. The paintings, statues, frescos, chandeliers & furnishings are beautiful. The rooms house numerous collections of artifacts, old coins, marble statues, paintings & household items.
After the museum, we return to our apartment for wine & cheese (both really good).
After our snack we head out again to explore the local area around the apartment. we wander past canals and cross the little bridges spanning the canals.
We return to our apartment early to get some sleep. The only disappointing thing about our apartment is the shower. It takes about 10 minutes for hot water to come through and even then it is just above luke warm. Good thing it is summer. The water pressure is also very low so not a great shower.
May 20
Day 3 - Venice - Exploring the Districts
Up early and grab a coffee, juice and pastry at the local cafe before we walk to St. Mark’s Square (about a 15 minute walk) to visit Doge’s Palace. I booked the tickets online to avoid having to lineup in the queues to gain entry. Doge's Palace opens at 8:30am. We arrive a little early and the queues are fairly small, even smaller for the pre-booked ticket line.
We get in early before the crowds and head straight upstairs to the palace rooms. By getting to the palace early and getting in right on opening time, as we wandered through the palace rooms there was hardly anyone with us. We totally avoided the crowds and felt like we had the palace to ourselves.
The restored Palace rooms and government chambers are quite simply amazing. The rooms are decorated in ornate gold gilding, colourful fabrics and floor to ceiling paintings usually depicting a religious themed scene. In seems no centimetre is spared with ceilings also decorated in gold and painted in the same style. Marble statue and other artworks are on display throughout. The palace is just room after room of the same and one of the most stunning and impressive buildings we have ever seen. Many times we were the only people in these very large chamber rooms. It just heightened the experience and sense of awe at what had been created. The palace building itself is extremely solid with some areas very architecturally ornate.
Next we walked on through to the prisons underneath Doge's Palace. To get to the prison you walk across the famous 'Bridge of Sighs' which connects the council/government chambers to the prisons. The prisons are very solid, constructed of heavy stone and metal. As expected it would have been cramped, dark and not a great place to end up. I really don't think it would have been easy to 'jailbreak' out of here.
After spending a 2-3 hours or so at Doge's Palace we spend a little more time looking around St. Mark's square before we head back towards our apartment. We have 'brunch' at a café near our apartment. We order these wonderful looking Paninis. So many of the cafes we pass have these tasty looking Paninis, so we are keen to try some. As yes they are really good. I have some coffee which is OK however I think I am just spoiled with the coffee culture of Melbourne, and can't help but be a little disappointed with the Italian coffee experience so far.
The rest of the day is spent exploring the streets of Venice. We spent a lot of time walking and covered a lot of ground. As we just wandered the streets we spent time away from the main tourist sites and the heavily travelled streets. As a result we got away from the crowds for a lot of the day and just leisurely wandered the streets, crossing canals and just soaking up the incredible Venice experience. What a beautiful city!
We also walk along the Zattere Promenade which lines a major section of the Grand Canal. You get great views of the Grand Canal as well as some of the smaller island on the other side of the canal. It is also along this section of the canal that the cruise liners also come in to port in Venice. While we are there, a major cruise ship makes its way along the canal.
As we move on from the promenade we pass by the Basilica of the Salute, one of many major churches in Venice. This is yet another fine old church building with wonderful architecture from a bygone era. We go inside and although it can't possible compete with the sheer grandeur and opulence of St. Mark's Basilica, it is beautiful in its own style. The basilica is also on the Grand Canal and the views back to St. Mark's square and the Campanile (Bell Tower) are fantastic.
As we have been wandering the streets, we have occasionally come across artists with small street stands selling the artwork. Some have looked hand painted while others have looked to be merely reproductions. Near the Basilica we come across an artist who has some beautiful artwork on display. We buy a couple of small oil paintings. When I asked him how long it took him to complete the painting, he indicated 'about an hour, but 20 years of practice'. He has certainly learnt his craft well and put that practice to hone his skill. His paintings are all beautiful.
After the Basilica we head back across the Accademia Bridge which connects the Dorsdura district to the San Marco district. We head back towards St. Mark's Square. We buy a 24 hour Vaporetta Water Bus pass (€20 each) and catch a ride back to our stop at Rialto Mercato. From there it is the short walk back to our apartment for a rest. It's time for those cheese, biscuits and wine again!! The wine and cheese are really great (and cheap which is even better!).
In the evening we head out again to see some of the views of Venice at night. We take a water bus ride along the Grand Canal to enjoy the night views and buildings lit up along the Grand Canal. Another great and unforgetable experience.
Finally we head back to our apartment after a very busy day of site seeing.
May 21
Day 4 - Venice - Outer Island Visit
Our last day in Venice. We get up early and walk to St. Mark’s Square. This time we go to visit the Campanile (Bell Tower). It opens at 9am and we are one of the first in line. The line of people waiting to go in grows quickly. It costs €8 each to enter the Campanile. Good news! - inside is an elevator which takes us to the top – no stair climb necessary. The Campanile is a very imposing structure adjoining St. Mark’s Square. When you get to the top the view of Venice and the surrounding islands is spectacular. You get fantastic view of the canals as they weave around the islands. It also shows how the buildings densely populate the various districts of Venice. It is a fine summer morning and the views across the canals are wonderful.
Our main itinerary today is to visit the islands of Murano and Burano. We get there via the Vaporetta which travel to the islands on a regular schedule each day. We go to Murano first. Murano is famous as being the home of Venetian glass making.
There are many shops on the island with the vast majority devoted to selling Murano glass products. Murano is very similar to Venice as it has canals weaving through the tiny islands. It is more open than Venice and not as densely built up. We wander the streets admiring the streetscape and canals. We spend a little time in one of the glass factories watching an artisan create a glass ornament. It sure is hot work! I buy a glass wine bottle stopper. While on Murano we also visit the glass museum which displays glass items from different centuries.
After a couple of hours on Murano we then catch the Vaporetta to Burano which is about a 30 minute ride. Once again we come to an island with a few small canals. Burano is famous for its very colourful buildings.
As Burano comes into view you can’t help but notice the brightly painted buildings on the island. There is definitely no pattern to the colour scheme but it is really picturesque. Burano is also famous for its lace making. The shops on the island sell some beautiful lace linen & clothing. It is far more beautiful than expected, it is expensive however.
The streets and canals are beautiful and lined with very colourful homes. None of the paintwork looks freshly painted, it all has a faded look which just adds to its appeal. Pots of flowers adorn some of the balconies & window sills which add further colour and charm.
We stop at a café for a rest and lunch. This followed by the obligatory gelato. The Italians sure know how to make great gelato. After lunch we spend more time wandering and exploring the island. After spending 2-3 hours on Burano we catch the Vaporetta back to our apartment.
We rest in the apartment to have a relaxing beer and cheese and catchup on news. In the evening we head out for a wander and while we are out Donna buys a red leather bag. After much searching and window shopping she finally decided on the one she wanted. Venice is also famous for its masks. They are for sale everywhere. Most are the plastic reproduction items that are imported from China. There are some shops that sell the real deal - hand made and painted papier mache masks. I have been looking at them all the time we have been in Venice and decide I want to take one home as a souvenir. Donna thinks I am crazy as you can't pack them in your luggage and need to carry them with extra care given how fragile they are and thinks I won't get it home safely - so I am wasting my money. Challenge accepted!!
We also make our way back to St. Mark’s Square for a final visit before heading back to the apartment.
Venice is truly beautiful city and this has been a very special start to our Italian holiday.